Category Archives: Uncategorised

Hat and the suit

I couldn’t resist making a hat out of the last fabric scraps from my two piece suit project. I made a pattern out of paper.

When I had got the shape I wanted, I stabilised the fabric with “Guterman extra stable”. I have no idea if milliners do it this way. đŸ€Ș

Then I stitched the pieces of crown and the pieces of the brim together.

After handstitching the top to the crown, I hand stitched the brim in place. Then I added some trim that I found in my stash.

The hat turned out pretty much as I had hoped. Afterwards, I wonder, though, if I should have used stabiliser on both layers of the brim, as it quickly looses the rounded shape on the backside.

Today we went to the wonderful Astrid Lindgrens VÀrld, to take pictures in Törnrosdalen. We went there several hours before the first show, but there were already other visitors there, enjoying the beautiful scenography. As you might see, I am quite awkward when posing among people. Therefore there is no portrait with the hat.

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Tanzanian Robe Reconstructed

18 years ago, I found this robe at a Tanzanian market place. I loved the colours and the embroideries, but as the model was quite unflattering, I only used it once. The top consists of a complete circle, sewn together below the armpits. The skirt is a rectangular wrap skirt.

För 18 Är sedan hittade jag denna drÀkt pÄ en tanzaniansk maknad. Jag Àlskade fÀrgerna och broderierna, men insÄg att modellen var vÀldigt osmickrande (Ätminstone med vÄrat nuvarande kroppsideal), sÄ jag anvÀnde den bara en gÄng. Toppen bestÄr av en stor cirkel, hopsydd under armarna, och kjolen Àr en stor rektangel som knyts omlott med en snodd.

During this past year I have had it hanging on my mannequin, pulling the fabric a few inches backward and forward every now and then. By the start of my vacation, I was finally able to decide on a design, cutting the fabric and sewing it together.

Senaste Äret har drÀkten hÀngt pÄ min provdocka. Jag har dragit tyget nÄgra cm hit och dit dÄ och dÄ. I början av semestern bestÀmde jag mig Àntligen för design, klippte tyget och sydde klart.

I believe the embroideries are made by a machine program but managed by hand (?), as they vary all over. I rotated the top one quarter, as the embroideries looked the best there. With darts below and at the sides of the bust, the bodice recieved tighter fit. I put two seams in the neckline at the back, in order to make it narrower and make the bodice a tad shorter. When the bodice had the right shape, I cut the fabric, dividing the bodice from the arms, but keeping it intact above the armpits. Because of the bust darts, there is some bulk at the armpits, but I don’t think it’s too obvious. A zipper closes under the left arm.

Jag tror att boderierna har gjorts med brodermaskin, men matats fram för hand (?) eftersom broderierna varierar över hela plagget. Jag roterade toppen ett kvarts varv för att fÄ de finaste broderierna mitt fram. Med infodringar under och vid sidan om bysten blev lÏvet tight. Med ett par sömmar baktill i halslinningen blev den mindre urringad och toppen blev lite kortare. NÀr livet fÄtt rÀtt passform klippte jag upp sidorna och separerade livet frÄn Àrmarna. PÄ grund av infodringen vid bysten Àr det extra mycket tyg vid Àrmen, men jag tycker ÀndÄ att det ser ok ut.

The model of the skirt required wider fabric, but I managed to piece it together.

Kjolens modell krÀvde egentligen ett vidare tygstycke, men jag kunde lappa ihop den.

Today, by the end of the summer, we took pictures while little brother slept. I think it seems to belong here, at our 60s staircase.

Idag, i slutet av sommaren, tog vi bilder medan lillebror sov. Jag tycker att drÀkten ser ut att höra hemma hÀr, i vÄr 60-talstrappa.

TyvĂ€rr insĂ„g jag först efter att ha krupit runt pĂ„ golvet med toppen pĂ„ och fixat med mönster inför nĂ€sta projekt, att detta tyg blir skrynkligt bara man tittar pĂ„ det. 😅

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CHILDREN’S shirts and a REPURPOSED dress

As this spring was hot, I decided to sew a cool shirt for our youngest, as a protection from the sun. I would finally use the pretty fabric that his brother chose when I was pregnant, two years ago. ❀ As I made this shirt, big brother asked if he could have one too, and if course I couldn’t resist.

Eftersom det var riktigt varmt redan under vĂ„ren sĂ„ ville jag sy en sval skjorta Ă„t minstingen, att anvĂ€nda som solskydd. Jag anvĂ€nde tyget som storebror valde medan lillebror lĂ„g i magen för tvĂ„ Ă„r sedan. ❀ NĂ€r storebror sĂ„g skjortan bad han om att fĂ„ en likadan och jag kunde naturligtvis inte neka honom detta.

Dear Bonna captured this lovely photo after the sunday service (as I wore another of my earlier creations). Thank you so much for the picture!

Fina Bonna fotograferade oss efter gudstjÀnsten (pÄ bilden bÀr jag en annan tidig kreation). Tack sÄ mycket för bilden, Bonna!

Here is a closer view of both shirts. HÀr kan man se skjortorna pÄ nÀrmare hÄll.

Tutorial for toddler’s shirt

About ten years ago I found a soft, lightweight bedsheet from the 70s, with a floral print that reminded me of a beautiful dress worn by Grace Kelly in Hitchcock’s Rear Window.

För ungefÀr tio Är sedan hittade jag ett underbart tunnslitet 70-talslakan med blomstermönster som pÄminde mig om Grace Kellys klÀnning i Hitchcocks Rear Window.

I made a more simple version, with a loose fit, tied with a bow at the waist.

Jag sydde en enklare variant, med luftig passform, sammanhÄllen med en rosett i midjan.

This dress was so incredibly comfy that I used a lot until it suddenly tore as I played with the kids the other day. I mourned it for a couple of hours until I found comfort in that it could be transformed into a shirt for the little one.

Denna klÀnning var sÄ otroligt skön att jag anvÀnde den vÀldigt mycket, tills den slutligen sprack medan jag lekte med barnen. Jag sörjde den under ett par timmar, tills jag insÄg att den kunde bli ytteligare en skjorta till minstingen.

I used the same pattern as for the first shirt, which was copied from his beloved strawberry shirt.

Jag anvÀnde samma mönster som till den första skjortan, vilket jag kopierade frÄn minstingens Àlskade jordgubbsskjorta.

After cutting the four pieces, sew elastic inside the hem of the arms, then pulled the fabric to the right fit before making the seam along the arm.

Efter att ha klippt ut de fyra delarna, sydde jag in ett elastiskt band i ÀrmfÄllen. Sedan drog jag Ät bander tills det var tillrÀckligt tight. DÀrefter sydde jag armlÀngden.

Then I moved on to the front opening of the shirt, before stiching the arms in place, binding the edges and making the bottom hem.

DÀrefter tog jag itu med öppningen i halsringningen och sedan sydde jag fast Àrmarna. Sist sydde jag kantband i halslinningen och fÄllade botten.

Today he tried it on and I believe he finds it just as comfy as I did my dress.

Idag testade han skjortan och jag tror faktiskt att han tycker att den Àr lika skön som jag upplevde klÀnningen.

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Hat BOXES

My poor hats have long been in urgent need of proper hat boxes. Last year someone at a forum for historical sewing linked a fantastic tutorial on how to make your own hat box out of cardboard, newspaper scraps and homemade glue. As my niece has made herself a regency hat, I wanted to make a hat box for her Christmas gift. I started by training on a huge box for my Edwardian hat.

Mina stackars hattar har lÀnge behövt lÀmpliga hattaskar. Förra Äret postade nÄgon en fantastisk tutorial om hur man tillverkar sin egen hattask utav papp, tidningspapper och eget lim. Min systerdotter har tillverkat sin egen empirhatt, sÄ jag ville gÀrna ge henne en matchande hattask i julkkapp.

Much time was spent tearing newspapers and brochures apart, watching the TV. The scraps are glued to the cardboard and after drying, the box is quite strong/durable. The glue consists of water and flour and is quite easy to make if one remembers to constantly stir the mixture during the boiling process, which can be hard when taking care of small children at the same time… when not stirred, the glue clots really fast.

Jag Ă€gnade mycket tid Ă„t att riva sönder tidningar och reklamblad. Dessa bitar limmas sedan fast pĂ„ kartongen och tillsammans bildar lagren en hĂ„rd och tĂ„lig enhet. Limmet bestĂ„r av vatten och mjöl och Ă€r enkelt att tillverka sjĂ€lv, om man bara lyckas röra konstant medsn det kokar… vilket kan vara svĂ„rt nĂ€r man har smĂ„ barn… Om man slutaröra börjar limmet klumpa sig snabbt.

The test box, m

I had planned on covering the box with pretty napkins, like in the video, but didn’t find any good motives. Therefore I selected the prettiest motives from the brochure scraps for the outer layer. Last I made grommet holes for air passage and fastened a string (unfortunately I had no string in matching colour and no time for giing to the sewing shop). I think she was happy for the gift and I made it clear thaI would not be offended if she chose to paint the whole thing or covering with decoupage ore suited for a regency hat.

Jag hade tÀnkt dekorera asken med vackra servetter, som i den lÀnkade videon, men jag hittade inga tillrÀckligt fina. DÀrmed fick jag nöja mig med att samla de finaste motiven pÄ tidningsremsorna och försöka sammanfoga dem till nÄgon slags estetisk helhet. Sist satte jag öljetter för ventilation och fÀste för band att bÀra asken med (tyvÀrr hade jag inget band som matchade, men hade inte tid att ta mig till sybutiken). Jag tror att hon blev glad för hattasken och jag var tydlig med att jag inte skulle bli sÄrad om hon valde att mÄla hela asken eller anvÀnda nÄgra vackra servetter som decoupage.

The whole process was quite contemplative and the part where I put the scraps together as a decorative outer layer was even great fun.

Hela processen var rÀtt meditativ och att sammanfoga tidningsbitarna till ett dekorativt yttre lager var till och med riktigt roligt.

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Art for Ukraine

One month has passed since Russia started the horrible war against Ukraine, seemingly aiming at obliterating the whole country with its citizens. Karin Faaij Hultgren, has started an admirable project, where people auction out their art pieces in the Facebook group Konstauktioner för Ukraina and the money goes to UNHCR’s work in Ukraine. At the moment I believe this has generated more than 100.000 Swedish kronor to the help organisation.

I had an UFO (unfinished object) in my art stash, which I dedicated to this project. I completed the regency family portrait, improving the shadows and adding some typical furniture. Now I hope someone will like it as much as I do, so it brings in some more money to the suffering people of Ukraine. You may place your bid on it here.

Nu har det gÄtt en mÄnad sedan Ryssland invaderade Ukraina och de tycks ha som mÄl att totalt tillintetgöra hela landet med dess invÄnare. Karin Faaij Hultgren har startat ett beundransvÀrt projekt, dÀr folk fÄr skÀnka sin konst, som sedan auktioneras ut och pengarna gÄr oavkortat till UNHCR och Röda korsets arbete i Ukraina. För tillfÀllet tror jag att detta projekt har inbringat över 100 000 kronor till hjÀlporganisationerna.

Jag hade ett UFO (unfinished objects) liggande bland mina konstgrejer och detta ville jag nu dedikera till konstauktionen. Jag fullbordade portrÀttet av empirfamiljen genom att förbÀttra skuggor och lÀgga till lite tidstypisk inredning. Nu hoppas jag att nÄgon kommer att tycka lika mycket om bilden som jag gör, sÄ att det drar in lite mer pengar till den lidande ukrainska befolkningen. Du kan lÀgga ditt bud hÀr.



We have a constantly drooling baby, who also has a growing appetite for colourful food. Thus, the clothes are always either wet of drool or stained by food and accordingly every minute of my spare time has been dedicated to the production of “drool napkins”(?!). They are made of worn out clothes. Only the push buttons are new. These are the latest napkins.

VÄr bebis dreglar konstant och har ocksÄ en vÀxande aptit för fÀrgglad mat. DÀrför Àr klÀderna alltid antingen blöta eller missfÀrgade av mat och dÀrmed har alla lugna stunder gÄtt Ät till att sy nya dregellappar. Jag anvÀnder utslitna klÀder. Endast tryckknapparna Àr nya. HÀr Àr de senaste alstren.

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Floral Dress for Breastfeeding

During my pregnancy I got more and more frustrated for not being able to sew anything for my rapidly changing body. I fell in love with the costumes of Queen’s Gambit and decided to make a dress with a waist, for my post pregnancy body. As I knew from before that the breastfeeding body can also change from week to week, I decided to try smocking. I made a few changes on the same pattern that I developed for my friend and my cocktail nursing dress. I had a pair of curtains with pretty floral print in my stash, that would be long enough, had I only cut it right! 😭 My pregnant, sleep deprived brain was not up for neither math, nor cutting. I had to rethink the model for the fabric to suffice (less fabric in the skirt, with more shallow pleats and only smocking on the top of the back, instead of the whole back) and I had to use bits with old seams visible. I guessed at what my measurements would be and sewed the dress without any other fitting than using my mannequin. Scary! You might imagine my surprise when I tried it on and it actually fit.

Under graviditeten blev jag allt mer frustrerad, dĂ„ jag inte kunde sy nĂ„got Ă„t min hastigt förĂ€ndrande kropp. Jag blev helt betagen av drĂ€kterna i Queen’s Gambit och bestĂ€mde mig för att sy en klĂ€nning med midja, tillĂ€gnad min kropp efter förlossningen. Eftersom jag visste att Ă€ven ammande kroppar kan förĂ€ndras frĂ„n vecka till vecka, tĂ€nkte jag testa smock. Jag gjorde nĂ„gra Ă€ndringar av det mönster som jag ritade till min vĂ€ns klĂ€nning och min festliga amningsklĂ€nning. Jag hade ett par gamla gardiner med trevligt blommönster och det skulle ha rĂ€ckt om jag bara hade klippt ut rĂ€tt… Min gravida, sömnlösa hjĂ€rna var inte i form för att vare sig rĂ€kna eller klippa. Jag var tvungen att tĂ€nka om med modellen för att fĂ„ tyget att rĂ€cka (mindre tyg i kjolen och dess veck och endast smock i övre delen av ryggen istĂ€llet för hela ryggen) och jag var tvungen att anvĂ€nda tygstycken dĂ€r de gamla sömmarna syntes. Jag gissade vad jag skulle fĂ„ för mĂ„tt och sydde utan annan provning Ă€n pĂ„ min provdocka. LĂ€skigt! Du kan förestĂ€lla dig hur förvĂ„nad jag blev nĂ€r jag testade klĂ€nningen och den faktiskt passade.

Construction

This was what the pattern looked like in the end.
SÄ hÀr sÄg det slutgiltiga mönstret ut.
Piping around the edges of the bodice.
Passpoal kring livets kanter.
Smocking of the upper part of the back.
Smock av ryggens övre tygstycke.
Putting the lower front parts together with an invisible zipper and facing at the top edge.
Livets nedre del fogas samman, med dold dragkedja och förstÀrkande tygbit upptill (facing?).
Each part of the bodice put together.
Livets alla delar har sammanfogats.
Making the skirt with pockets and (unevenly distributed) pleats.
Kjolens fyra vĂ„der sys samman, fickor sĂ€tts in och vĂ€ck lĂ€ggs inte sĂ€rskilt snyggt…
Making a pattern and the final sleeves.
Mönster till Àrmarna.
The final dress with push buttons and hidden zipper. It has many faults – it wrinkles really easily, the opening for breastfeeding is slightly wrong placed and there are some issues with the arms – but it is very practical and will serve me well, I think.

Den fĂ€rdiga klĂ€nningen, med tryckknappar och dold dragkedja. Den har mĂ„nga fel och brister – den blir skrynklig vid blotta anblicken, amningsöppningen Ă€r lite felplacerad och dĂ€rmed lite svĂ„ranvĂ€nd och Ă€rmarna Ă€r inte perfekta – men jag tror att jag fĂ„ mycket anvĂ€ndning av den.

These photos were shot in panic after ironing the dress while preparing lunch, putting on makeup while playing, tidying up the particular spots that would be visible (in fact, I am surrounded by seas of toys and mountains of pillows), while hearing the baby starting to signal that he very much wants to test the purpose of the dress.

Dessa foton togs i panik efter att jag strukit klÀnningen medan jag lagade mat, stÀdat de stÀllen som skulle synas i bild (i sjÀlva verket omges jag av kuddberg och hav av leksaker), alltmedan bebisen började signalera att han ville testa om klÀnningen verkligen fyllde sin funktion).

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Solhatt

Sonen behövde en ny solhatt, men det var helt omöjligt att hitta en hatt i rÀtt storlek, sÄ jag fick helt enkelt göra en sjÀlv. Först gjorde jag ett mönster av papper.

Jag anvÀnde dubbla tyglager, med förstÀrkning (?) i brÀttet.

NÀr alla delar var sammansydda sydde jag Àven nÄgra cirkulÀra sömmar kring brÀttet, för att ge extra stadga.

Resultatet blev helt ok. FÄr se hur hatten tÄl vÀder och vind framöver.

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3rd in the Conteset

Since I published the pictures of my gown for the Serpent Witch, I have recieved so many incredibly fine comments from those who saw my facebook post. As it attracted so much attention, I was interviewed by the local newspaper and the interview and pictures got two and a half pages! After that, even more people (both acquaintances and strangers) have shown their appreciation and I feel a bit like a local celebrity. The interview was obviously so good that they now want to make another interview concerning the interview.

2nd of April the finalists were announced and I was one of five finalists in my category (out of 192)! There were so many fantastic entries that I cannot grasp that some people actually chose to vote for me. I feel so honoured, humble and thankful. Below you see the five finalists from my category and if you click on the picture, you will be directed to the page where you see the finalists from each category.

On the 9th of April, Ruth Goodman announced the winners (my absolute favourites on first and second place, huzza!) and I was on the third place! I am so happy, honoured and proud.

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The Serpent Witch – Photo Shoot

Now the Snake Witch garment is finally finished!

So, for those of you who have not followed this project from the beginning, I want to introduce the Lady of the Green Kirtle, the Queen of the Underland or the Green Witch, from The Silver Chair, in the book series of Narnia by C.S. Lewis. She is perceived as a lovely, beautiful creature by those who meet her, but the story shows that she is a ruthless ruler and a witch who sometimes transforms herself into a serpent. She is described as tall, slender, with glimmering skin and wearing a flowy green gown.
My pretty silk is woven by green and red thred and looked very green laying flat. Along the way I understood that my Green Lady would have to accept the more purple tone, which became even more dominant with the pinkish arms. I am very pleased with how she turned out. Here she is!

För er som inte har följt mitt projekt frĂ„n start, vill jag presentera Gröna damen, Drottningen av Underjorden och OrmhĂ€xan, frĂ„n C.S. Lewis ”Silvertronen”, i Narnia-serien. De som möter henne uppfattar henne som en Ă€lskvĂ€rd, vacker kvinna, men genom berĂ€ttelsen framgĂ„r det att hon Ă€r en hĂ€nsynslös hĂ€rskare och en hĂ€xa som ibland förvandlas till orm. Hon beskrivs som lĂ„ng och smal, med skimrande hy och med en grön böljande klĂ€nning.


Mitt vackra siden Àr vÀvt i grönt och rött och sÄg vÀldigt grönt ut nÀr det lÄg ner. Under konstruktionens gÄng har jag insett att min Gröna Dam mÄste acceptera en mer lila ton, vilken blivet Ànnu mer framtrÀdande med de rosaaktiga Àrmarna. Jag Àr vÀldigt nöjd hur hon blev. Hoppas att ni ska gilla henne!

The corset is by no means perfect, but it is far better than any corset I have made before. I made 4,5 mockups and learnt new techiques, as rollpinning, stitching in the ditch, using fray check etc. This is thanks to the Stitchlings’ community and the fantastic mentors of Foundations Revealed.

Korsetten Ă€r inte i nĂ€rheten av perfekt, men den Ă€r sĂ„ mycket bĂ€ttre Ă€n de korsetter jag tidigare har sytt. Jag har anvĂ€nt nya tekniker, som roll pinning, stitching in the ditch, anvĂ€nt “fray check” mm.. Detta Ă€r tack vare Stitchlings’ community och de fantastiska metorerna pĂ„ Foundations Revealed. Allt korsettmaterial och en del klĂ€nningsdetaljer Ă€r köpt pĂ„ Vena Cava Design.

I am so pleased with how the dress turned out and so glad that I made the corset for it – it really gives the dress a more regal silhouette. For the dress I started with making the foundation piece in lightweight cotton and polyester for the skirt, with tulle attached for giving the skirt the right silhouette. I used 9,5 metres of silk for the dress. All hems are hand stitched. The hem of the skirt is lined with horsehair. The arms are detachable, so that I can use it as a modern ball gown, would such an opportunity ever appear. The belt is made from four twisted strands of steel wire.

My dear friend Josefine Antonsson shot these beautiful pictures yesterday, when we had finally been blessed with a thin snow powder on the naked ground. Thank you so much!

You can follow the whole journey from idea to sewing the different parts here: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3.

Jag Ă€r sĂ„ nöjd med hur klĂ€nningen blev och sĂ„ glad för att jag valde att göra korsetten till den – korsetten ger klĂ€nningen en mer kunglig silhuett. Jag började med ett undre lager med tunnt bomullstyg i livet och polyesterfoder för underkjolen. LĂ€ngst ner fĂ€ste jag tyll för att fĂ„ rĂ€tt silhuett. Jag anvĂ€nde 9,5 meter siden till sjĂ€lva klĂ€nningen. Alla fĂ„llar Ă€r handsydda. KjolfĂ„llen Ă€r dessutom fĂ„llad med “hĂ€sthĂ„r”. Ärmarna Ă€r avtagbara, sĂ„ att jag kan anvĂ€nda klĂ€nningen som modern balklĂ€nning, om det nĂ„gonsin skulle dyka upp ett sĂ„dant tillfĂ€lle. BĂ€ltet gjorde jag genom att flĂ€ta fyra strĂ„ltrĂ„dar.

Min vÀn Josefine Antonsson tog dessa magiska bilder igÄr, nÀr vi Àntligen vÀlsignats med ett tunnt vitt snöpuder över den nakna marken. Tack sÄ mycket!

Du kan följa hela processen frÄn idé till sömnad av de olika delarna hÀr: Del 1 och Del 2 och Del 3.

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Serpent Witch Part 3 – finishing touches

I wanted to try horse hair lining for the hem of the skirt, in order to have a more professional finish. Haha. That did not work out very well, as I had placed the horse hair upside down and the thin fabric was distorted. I had to unpick everything again, start from the beginning and finish it by hand instead.

I had pondered on whether to leave the dress without arms or not, but as the skirt was finished, I thought it did not look enough fairytale like. I had a dupioni silk (given by a friend, Carolina Holmström) laying in my stash, matching the gown perfectly.

I wanted a late medieval S-arm with shiny buttons, preferably 10 on each arm. I used the pattern from my late 1300s cotehardie. Unfortunately I had only ten buttons totally, so I spaced them out in the best way I could.

After finishing the cotehardie arms, with handsewn buttonholes and metal buttons, I used the scraps I had left of the dress fabric for the flowy arms. Everything was hemmed by hand. I had time for it, thanks to a nasty cold causing one week of isolation, due to the Covid restrictions.

As the dress was finally finished, I tore my corset mockup apart, so that I could use the busk and boning for the real corset. This time, I tried to make everything as precisely as possible – rollpinning, basting, using waist band, fray check, stitching in the ditch etc.

After trying the corset on for only three times, I found out that the wonderful satin was already straying away from the eyelets.

I have got wonderful advice from the mentors and Stitchling members on the Foundations Revealed Community, so that this will not happen again, with the next corset.

There are a lot of new wrinkles, which I suppose depend on the silk behaving different than the mockup material. My uncorseted waist measure is 72 cm, but laced up its 62,5 cm – so almost 10 cm reduction. Overall I am very pleased with the corset. It is so much better than my earlier ones and I have learnt so much that I want to apply on new projects.

Compare this to the first mockup, and you will understand why I am content, even though there are some issues left.

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