Category Archives: Från idé till färdigt plagg

Serpent Witch – Part 2 – draping the blob into a fairytale gown

After achieving the right shape for the corset mockup, I have aimed at making the smoothest foundation possible, to go underneath the lightweight silk. A few minutes at a time, I sketch, measure and sew. Tiny steps, over and over again. At last it begins to look like a dress.

Efter att uppnått rätt silhuett på korsetttoillen, försöke jag skapa den jämnaste grunden jag kunde, för det tunna sidenet som ska vara ytterst.  Jag har skissat, mätt och sytt några minuter åt gången. Små steg i taget, om och om igen. Till slut börjar det likna en klänning.

Draping and finding out that it will be best to use a bodice and then an attatched skirt

First, I made the bodice part, from a lightweight cotton, that I got from Birgitta. It has a long zipper under the arm. It has two darts in front and, mistortunately two gussets at the lower back (don’t ask me why). Then I added a skirt, made from a synthetic lining fabric, that I got amongst the most beautiful fabrics from Sollan, through Carolina Holmström. In order to get the right  flowy shape, I have added tulle in several rows, smother in the front and more gathered in the back.

Creating a bodice pattern from the draped fabric

Först sydde jag klänningslivet av rester från ett tunt bomullstyg som jag fått av Birgitta. Livet har en lång dragkedja under armhålet, två inprovningar framtill och två sprund i ländryggen (fråga inte varför). Sedan sydde jag fast en underkjol, av tyg som jag fått tillsammans med flera fantastiska tyger från Sollan, genom Carolina Holmström. För att få till den perfekta böljande formen, fäste jag sedan tyll i flera rader nedtill på kjolen – mest rynkade baktill.

Finished bodice with zipper
Petticoat with tulle, to get the right shape

The fashion fabric is a very lightweight dupioni ikat from Khiva (an ancient city along the Silk road), that I got from my mother years ago. Since it doesn’t fit the historical fashions that I use to do and is too beautiful to use for any project, it has just layed in my stash, to be taken out and be stared at for a while every year. I was thrilled when I finally found out that it would suit my serpent witch!

Klänningstyget är ett tunt ikatmönstrat dupionsiden från Khiva (en uråldrig stad längs sidenvägen), som mamma gav mig för många år sedan. Eftersom sådana tyger inte förekommer under de historiska moden som jag sysslar med, har tyget legat i en låda för att bli framplockat och stirrat på med jämna mellanrum. Jag blev så glad när jag kom på att det skulle passa fint på ormhäxan!

It is 60 cm wide and good 9 m long. I have measured and counted so many times, trying to figure out how to cut the fabric and have something left for the sleeves. Finally I have decided to just finish the dress and see what I can come up with with, using what fabric is left afterwards. Oh, the horror.

Tyget är 60 cm brett och drygt 9 m långt. Jag har mätt och räknat så många gånger, för att lista ut hur tyget ska klippas och ändå få något över till ärmarna. Till slut har jag bestämt mig för att göra klart klänningen först och se om det sedan klura ut hur ärmarna ska se ut, utifrån hur mycket tyg jag har kvar då. Kära hjärtanes.

Draping the blob into a fairytale gown

Now I have started draping. It is great fun! But it is challenging to save the hemline at the right height as I  manipulate the fabric. I put a pin in every wrinkle and will then secure all of this stiching by hand with my finest needle. This will take maaaany hours.

Nu har jag börjat drapera tyget. Det är superkul! Men det är knepigt att bevara rätt höjd på kjolfållen medan jag manipulerar tyget. Jag sätter en nål i varje veck och ska sedan fästa allt detta med handsömnad. Detta kommer ta mååååånga timmar.

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Serpent Witch – Part 1

Dress Diary Part 1

Background

The journey has finally begun! The theme of next year’s Your Wardrobe Competition is any character from any literature.  Exciting, isn’t it?! I haven’t been able to decide on which character to go for, as I feel like I can’t go down the Jane Austen lane and yet another regency gown. Unfortunately the Elizabeth Gaskell characters are from particular years that I am not willing to spend a year on recreating and the wonderful characters of Dickens are either too young or too old for me. There are some sympathetic background characters in Astrid Lindgren’s books, but I have already made a competition piece inspired by her Edwardian teachers. I have already seen many go for my dear Tolkien characters. For a while, I thought about making a dress for David Eddings’ Polgara.  Then there is a character in the Narnia book “The Silver Chair”, which actually has tickled my mind for many years – the Green Witch! When I was a child I dreamed of designing a dress for her, but then I lacked the skill to carry it out. Now, as a member of the Stitchling Society, surrounded by true masters, I  think that I actually might be able to pull it through!

The Green Witch

I read the passages with the witch again (in Swedish). She is obviously the most beautiful creature Prince Rilian has ever beheld. Haha! She is very slender, with curly hair and glimmering skin. Her dress is flowy, in a venomous green colour.

I want to make a dress for this lovely lady! In order to get such a slim waist, I will need a corset with waist reduction and breast padding. As I like the victorian take on the medieval fashions (especially the preraphaelite take on this), I  will make what I call a Medievorian dress. I will use my lightweight dupioni fabric from Khiva, hoping to create a flowy texture on top of the corset base. I have not  yet  decided  what  the  arms  will  look  like,  as  I am  not  sure  how much  fabric  will  be  left  when  the  rest  of  the  dress  is  finished.

I want to make some kind of belt, incorporating her serpent avatar.

Corset

I made a self drafted corset pattern by Cathy Hay’s tutorial, years ago. Because of lack of money and thus lack of the right materials I have never finished it. I have returned to it several times, though, and drawn cryptical lines… I believe I originally made it for giving 2″ waist reduction and some push up.

Here comes my several mockups.

These lines must have been for an Edwardian shape? The corset fitted like a glove, but gave no extra shape.

2nd mockup, with straight lower line, some waist reduction, but no extra room for breasts. Made from a bed cover fabric, a gift from my brother.

3d mockup with too big bust, and back skin spillage because of breast padding pulling the corset forward. I add 2 cm sloping waist.

4th mockup much better, but I reduce the bust a little more and change bent steel boning for spiral steel at the bust. In the sides I add heavily bent steel boning.

4,5 mockup – almost perfect? Sloping waist, waist reduction and padding for the breasts.

Now I am ready for draping the foundation layer and then the dress on the corset mockup. Hopefully I will have time both for finishing the real corset, the dress and accessories in time for the competition.

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Curtain Dress

There is seldom time for sewing since we moved to our house. We are so lucky to have a helping family and to know craftsmen, so that all organic material is removed from the cellar, the electicity,  plumbing, draining around the house, topographic changes in the garden and the new floor in our washing room is already finished after only four months! The projects in waiting are quite pressing though…  I’m proud of having put back the pavingstones, but the ground needs preparation for grass and flowers, and the cellar is still kind of dangerous.

By Christmas, I laid my hands on a pair of pretty curtains with an extreme amount of fluonces at the second hand shop. 30 SEK. What a find! My husband was horrified, thinking that I intended them for the room of our son. ?

A pair of 1 x 1,6 metres of curtains, rounded at the bottom

Last week, the stormy weather at last gave me an excuse for not working in the garden, but delving into a nice little sewing project. I made a really simple and usable dress out of the curtains. My husband was relieved.

I did everything just I use to: I draped the fabric on my mannequin, pinning it so that the grain lines would be straight and putting darts in front and at the bust. Then I stitched it together, leaving one side seem open for a zipper.  There was enough fabric for a halfcirkle skirt.  I put pockets in the side seams. This time I carefully ironed the hemline as I folded it twice. The bodice was attached to the skirt and the zipper was inserted. Then I finished the neckline and arms. 

The dress was finished yesterday and today it had its premier. I was too tired and my dear photographer was too eager to go fishing, so there was no photo shoot today, even though the weather is lovely and the woods are full of anemones.

Zipper and pockets in the side seams


The Photoshoot(s)

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Child’s Winter Coat

Last year I disintegrated my sister’s old wool winter jacket (she let me, I promise) in order to reuse the lining for my red winter coat. Originally, I planned to use the wool for my nephew’s medieval clothes, but when I had the vlieseline (?) removed, it was too sticky on the wrong side. So I saved it in my stash. When I found this fluffy faux fur at Panduro, I knew just what to use it for! It’s so fluffy I’m gonna die!

Förra året sprättade jag upp min systers gamla vinterjacka (hon tillät det, jag lovar), för att kunna återanvända jackans foder till min  röda kappa. Jag sparade yttertyget, som var ett fint ylle. Jag tänkte använda tyget till min systersons medeltidskläder, men det när jag hade tagit bort det stadgande materialet (vlieseline?) var det alldeles för sticksigt, så det fick ligga kvar i tyglagret. När jag hittade denna fluffiga fuskpäls visste jag precis vad jag skulle använda yllet till! Det är så fluffigt att jag dör!

I made a new pattern, tracing the outer lines from my son’s favourite jacket, but adding one centimeter at every side, except at the bottom, where I added one decimeter.  I thought about hiding a zipper behind a flap (?) and adding fancy metal buttons, that my son adores, but it seemed too intricate to sew and for a child to put on by himself.

Jag ritade ett nytt mönster genom att rita en centimeter utanför varje kant på hans favoritjacka. Nertill la jag till en decimeter. Jag funderade över att ha en dragkedja dold under en flärp med fina metallknappar, som han älskar, men det verkade vara för knepigt både att sy och för en tvååring att hantera. 

I removed the old pockets and used this part for arms. Unfortunately the fabric behind the pocket seams had a lighter colour, which I unsuccessfully tried covering up with black ink. Obviously the ink reflects sunlight very well… I had to make some piecing together, as you see.

Jag sprättade bort de gamla fickorna och använde dessa tygstycken till ärmarna. Tyvärr visade sig tyget under sömmarna ha blivit ljusare, vilket jag försökte maskera med svart tush. Tushet reflekterar visst solljuset väldigt bra… Som du ser fick jag skarva en del för att få tyget att räcka.

When he first tried the jacket on, he began crying and wouldn’t try it again for a few days. Today, I realized that there was a needle left in the faux fur. After removing it, he loved this jacket. He described it as “Awesome! Cozy!”. I am so pleased!

När han testade jackan första gången började han gråta och vägrade ta på den igen. Idag upptäckte jag att en nål gömt sig i den fluffiga fuskpälsen. Efter att jag tagit bort den älskade han sin nya jacka. Han beskrev den som  “Häftig! Mysig!” Jag är så glad!

For Christmas gift, I made a pyjamah, tracing his favourite pair. He loves the fact that it is a dress with pockets

Jag sydde en pyjamas till honom i julklapp. Hans favoritpyjamas är en klänning med fickor. Denna använde jag som förlaga och han blev väldigt nöjd.

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Regency Gentleman, Toddler and Teen

At Tjolöholm Castle 2016

Teenager’s Dress

These last few months have been crazy. I’ve had my internship at the psychiatric ward, which have been both thrilling and exhausting, as I have been working nights a lot more than I tolerate. At the same time I have been preparing clothes for a recency ball. In a weak moment I decided to even participate in dancing sessions before the ball, in order to fully enjoy the historically authentic ball (for those of you who don’t know me, I  am not the dancing type). My dear nieces will accompany us for the dancing lessons and thus, there is need for one more regency dress, for a  slender thirteenyearold. The younger niece will wear this dress which will be long enough after having removed the pin tucks. I made the quickest dress ever, with the least amount of material ever, leaving approximately five square centimetres of scraps. This is the result. 

This is what fabric was left after making the dress. I’m quite proud of myself.

The new dress with floral print and the old white dress which has now been successfully lengthened by removing the pin tucks.

Toddler’s Dress

Our toddler will join the dancing sessions, off course. So he needs a kirtle. I made one in a few hours by machine. He should have a pair of trousers and a hat too, but there is no time and what does it matter, really? If you want some background about children’s clothing, see this lovely page.

Tired boy in the company of his best friends

Fall Front Breeches

I have been working on a new pair of breeches for my husband for some years, moments at a time. Now only the buttons remain. I have tried to solve the mystery of the construction of the elusive fall front breeches and drafted the pattern myself. This is how I have interpreted what I have seen in pictures.

1) putting together front, back and both sides 2) cutting slits by the sides for narrow or broad fall front 3) adding the pieces behind the fall front

5) adding fabric pieces to the fall front sides 6) folding the pieces around the sides in order to hide the raw edges 7) adding one piece more to the top of the fall front in the same way

After I stopped documenting this process – why, in heavens name? – I added a waistband to hide the raw edges at the rest of the top of the breeches. I hid the raw edges of the end of the legs in the same way. And at the very last I will add buttons and make button holes!

Shirt with Ruffles

I thought that he also needed a nicer shirt and cravat than the first set of clothes, so I made a new shirt with ruffles in the neckline and by the cuffs. Afterwards, I have found excellent tutorials for period regency shirt construction, as in Fabric and Fiction and at Your Wardrobe Unlocked. This one is obviously wrong in many ways.

I started by cutting the double length wished for, folded and cut a whole for the head and a slit at the mid front. Then I added two square arms with square gussets at the arm pits, with gathering at the shoulder and at the end of the arms. I also added ruffles at the slit in the front, although I found out later that the slit should probably have been 3-4 dm long and the ruffles should have been in one continuing piece, instead of one on each side.

I have no idea how this should be done, but this was my way of making the ruffles at the end of the arms: I had two pieces of fabrics in which I hid the raw edge of the arm gathering. After having stitched this in place, I added a folded piece of fabric with gathering, which I tucked in between the two layers in the same way as the arm gathering.

I believe that the opening in the from should have been longer, but then there would not have been enough of fabric for ruffles.

Ruffles sewn by hand and self covered buttons for the collar.

Tailcoat

My most time consuming sewing project ever must be his new tailcoat. I have used historical methods and made all of the interlining by hand – hundreds of stitches that no one will ever see… ? I used the fantastic pattern of Laughing Moon that I bought for the prize money for my win in the 2017 competition of Your Wardrobe Unlocked.

Now there is only a new waistcoat left to make the suit complete. And a pair of shoes, stockings, pocket watch, new hair etc… When starting to update the historical wardrobe, there is no end to it, especially as the family expands.

If I’m still alive by the end of the week, after two more nights at work, I look forward to see all of these clothes during the dancing session.

The dance training was featured in the local newspaper, with some nice pictures. This was what our family looked like. Alas, it was all too obvious that I had not made adjustments for the tail coat during the process, for it did not fit as well as I had hoped for.

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Medievalish

Two years ago, we planned on going to the Medieval Week at Visby together with my brother and my sisters family.  At the eleventh hour, I noticed that we had booked the ferry ticket and hotel nights for the wrong week.  Oh, the horror.  We comforted ourselves by going to the beautiful castle of Tjolöholm instead, where there was a Jane Austen display. My nieces have been very keen on experiencing the Medieval week though. I had no vacation this summer, so Visby was out of the question, but I had time for a day at the medieval fair at Söderköpings gästabud.

With a tiny bit of help from me, my nieces made their own gowns – all from cutting to sewing. I am so proud of them! We used fabric from my stash. The green cotton was initially blue, but became green when I was trying to dye it black for the Scary Robe. The pink linen was a huge table cloth. The dresses are made from rectangles and triangles. As the fabric is so unmedieval, the girls went all in by using Tanzanian wooden belts fort decoration. I think that they look like fantasy princesses!

Linen kirtle and liripipe hood out of soft wool

They asked me several times what our boy would wear. Eventually I could not resist making a little kirtle for him, out of an old linen skirt.

Earlier, we worn the cheapest underwear, made out of old cotton bed sheets. At our last stay at the Medieval week though, I bought linnen. During my internships far away from home, I spent the lonely evenings hand stitching a new shirt and a pair of breeches for my husband. I made a new chemise for myself the last night, on machine. I am quite proud of that I succeeded in making alterations for my husbands cotehardie. I made it for him ten years ago, when he was quite slender. Since he began bodybuilding, he has not been able to get into these clothes again. Astonishingly, I seem to have been wise enough to save broad seam allowances, so that I could make both the torso and sleeves wider. After adding sleeve gussets at the shoulders, he was even able to move!

New underwear: linen chemise, shirt, breeches and a little kirtle for the boy

The day at Söderköping was cosy. Off course, it could not compare with Visby, but our boy was happy in the clothes (he had my liripipe hood because of the cold weather) and my nieces were happy to play with him for a whole day.  The city is beautiful; the main part consists of pretty wooden houses from the 19th and early 20th century. The market was nice and I found a nice fabric for a new modern coat. All together, it was a nice day, in great company. Thank you, dear nieces!

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Scary Robe for Child

Some weeks ago, I heard something that made my heart melt. A seven year old boy said that I am the best seamstress in the world. I tried to explain that this was not the case, but he insisted. Because

“You are even better at sewing than my own mother!”

This dear boy asked me if I could help him sew a robe that he could wear together with his Scream mask, or perhaps help him making his own gym bag? Because of my baby, I do not know how much time there will be for teaching him how to sew, so I decided to make the robe as a birthday gift.

För några veckor sedan fick jag höra något som fick mitt hjärta att smälta. En sjuåring sa att jag var bäst på att sy i hela världen. Jag försökte förklara att det nog inte var riktigt sant, men han höll fast vid sitt påstående, för

“Du är till och med bättre än min mamma på att sy!”

Denne fine pojke undrade om jag inte kunde hjälpa honom att sy en jättehäftig dräkt, som han kunde ha tillsammans med sin Scream-mask, eller om jag kanske en gympapåse? På grund av min bebis visste jag inte hur mycket tid det skulle bli över för att lära ut sömnad, så jag bestämde mig för att sy dräkten till hans födelsedag.

This is what I envisioned – a dramatic robe with a lot of fabric that would fly behind the boy as he ran around scaring everybody. I did not have any black fabric, but I had recently been given some colored cotton fabrics, that I thought were exactly the same kind, except for the green and blue color. I dyed the fabrics black, but discovered that only the blue fabric became fully black. The green took a darker shade, but was still very green. I could not use that piece, so I had to make do with much less fabric than I had intended to use.

Så här såg min vision ut – en dramatisk rock med massor av tyg, som skulle flyga bakom pojken när han sprang runt och skrämde folk. Jag hade inget svart tyg hemma, men hade nyligen fått färgade bomullstyger, som jag trodde var av samma sort. Jag färgade det blå och gröna tyget med svart textilfärg, men upptäckte att bara det blå tyget blev helt svart. Det gröna hade antagit en mörkare nyans, men var fortfarande väldigt grönt. Jag kunde inte använda det tyget, så jag fick försöka klara mig med mindre tyg än jag hade planerat för.This is the very simple construction of the scary robe. I used the following measurements:

  • height
  • length from shoulders to floor
  • arm length
  • neck circumference
  • length from base of the neck over the head to the other side
  • length from forehead to backside of the base of the neck

All this with some extra cm, especially for the hood.

Detta är den extremt enkla konstruktionen av den läskiga rocken. Jag använde följande mått:

  • längd
  • längd från axlar till golv
  • armlängd
  • nackens omkrets
  • längd från nackens bas över huvudet och ned på andra sidan
  • längd från pannan till baksidan av nackens bas

Alla dessa mått med några centimeter extra, särskilt för luvan.

I gathered the double shoulder measurement in pleats and cut a hole for the neck and made a vent at the front. The vent kloses with a hook and eye.

Jag samlade det dubbla skuldermåttet i veck över axlarna och klippte ett hål för huvudet och ett sprund mitt fram. Sprundet stängs med en hyska och hake.

This is how it looked after making the hems. The pleats were secured with 5 centimeter machine stitches.

Så här såg det ut efter att jag fållat halslinningen. Vecken sydde jag fast med 5 cm långa maskinsömmar.

As I did not have enough fabric for following my own pattern, I used the fabric as is seen on the picture to the right. I had to join three pieces for the hood. I tore away threads lenghtwise, in order to give a rugged edge to the hood and arms. At the bottom of the arms, I also shreded the fabric at the bottom by hand. I stitched the front and back together with some few stitches just beneath the armpits.

Eftersom jag inte hade tillräckligt mycket tyg för att följa mitt eget mönster, använde jag tyget som ses på skissen här till höger. Jag skarvade ihop tre bitar till luvan. Jag rev bort trådar för att få kanterna på luvan och ärmarna att se slitna ut. Längst ned på ärmarna rev jag sönder tyget för hand. Jag sydde ihop fram- och bakstycket med några få stygn precis under armålorna.

This is how it came out.

Så här såg det ut till slut.

The boy was very pleased with his gift and I believe that I am still his seamstress idol.

Pojken var mycket nöjd med sin present och jag tror att jag fortfarande är hans sömmerske-idol.

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Small Clothes

During my pregnancy we bought fabrics for the baby nest and childrens clothes. From these, I have sewn a pajama, a bodysuit that is already too tiny for my big boy and a nightgown for a threeyearold girl. All three were quickly cut out – for the baby clothes I used well fitting clothes as template and for the nightgown, I cut rectangles with standard measurements according to the girls age, with slanting shoulders and a tad more width at the bottom at the skirt than at the waistline.  I used the wrong side of the fabric as tape for arms and legs. The push buttons were a bit tricky to attach at sites with many layers of fabric, so I had to sew the bottom of the pajama legs together.

Under graviditeten köpte jag två tyger till nästet och barnkläder. Av dessa  tyger har jag nu även sytt en pyjamas, en body, vilken redan är för trång för min stora pojke och ett nattlinne till en treåring. Alla tre plagg klipptes snabbt till – till nattlinnet använde jag mig av rektanglar med standardmått för flickans ålder, med lätt utsvängning av kjoldelen och sluttande axlar, och till min bebis använde välsittande kläder som mall. För att få matchande kantband använde jag mig av avigan på tygerna. Tryckknapparna var lite knepiga att fästa där det var många tyglager att tränga igenom, så jag var tvungen att istället sy ihop nedre delen av pyjamasbenen.

Over all, I am happy with the result. My boy has slept well in the pajama and the girl seems to be happy for the nightgown. Off course, I would rather have made the bodysuit big enough for him to use more than once, but now I have learnt always to add a lot of fabric in order to fit this little giant.

Jag är i stort sett nöjd med resultatet. Min bebis har sovit gott i sin pyjamas och flickan verkar vara glad för sitt nattlinne. Det är så klart retligt bodyn blev för liten, men nu har jag lärt mig att jag alltid ska plussa på rejält för att det ska passa detta lilla matvrak.

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Cocktail Dress for Nursing

Nursin Beetle Takes Flight

My dear mother turned 60 years old this weekend and threw a big party. Since she has been so kind as to buy dresses from me and then proudly has shown them to the world, I felt that it would be sad to show up in the ragged clothes I otherwise use while nursing my baby.  For her sake, I really wanted to make something pretty. Luckily, for the first time in months, I actually had both time and energy for sewing something for myself! Sewing with the baby asleep in the slen, I was able to make this dress in one week, in about five hours. I fitted it two times. When I removed the dress from the dress form for the last time, the dress form broke! I am happy it held together for the whole construction process.

I helgen fyllde min kära mamma sextio år och hade ett stort kalas. Eftersom hon har varit så snäll och låtit mig designa och sy klänningar åt henne, som hon har betalat för och visat upp för omvärlden, kände jag att det skulle vara tråkigt att komma till festen iklädd de slitna kläder som jag annars använder under amningen. För hennes skull ville jag sy något fint. Turligt nog fick jag faktiskt både tid och energi till att sy åt mig själv, för första gången på flera månader. Jag passade på att sy medan bebisen sov i bärsjalen och hann sy färdigt klänningen på en vecka, kanske sammanlagt fem timmar. Jag provade klänningen två gånger. När jag tog av den från provdockan sista gången, gick provdockan sönder! Jag är dock tacksam att den höll under hela konstruktionsprocessen.

Some years ago, I designed this nursing dress for a friend. It closes in the front and has openings over the bust, closed with push buttons. Afterwards I have understood that the bust openings would have been more practical if they were wider and placed over the apex of the bust.

För några år sedan designade jag den hör amningsklänningen åt en vän. Den stängs mitt fram och har amningsluckor över bysten, som stängs med tryckknappar. Efteråt har jag förstått att amningsluckorna skulle vara mycket mera praktiska om de var vidare och placerade mitt över bystens högsta punkt.

I used this pattern, made the improvements mentioned above and adapted the model for this festive occasion. I wanted something fancy and thought about making bare shoulders. While nursing,  though, I find strapless bras very inconvenient, so I used tiny shoulder straps, almost off shoulder. As always, I kept next year’s competition of Your Wardrobe Unlocked in mind – this time with the theme of insects – and was inspired by beautiful blue mint beetles. I had just the right fabric for this, the left overs from my regency gown.

Jag använde detta mönster, gjorde de förbättringar som jag nämnde ovanför och ändrade modellen för att passa till kalaset. Jag ville ha något festligt och övervägde att göra klänningen axelbandslös, men insåg att detta inte skulle gå att lösa om jag ville använda amnings-BH. Som vanligt hade jag även Your Wardrobe Unlocked-tävlingen i åtanke – nästa års tävling har insekter som tema – och inspirerades av blå skalbaggar. Jag hade ju ett tyg i precis rätt nyans, som blivit över efter en empirklänning.

As my friend and I have similar shape on the torso, I did not change the pattern, but cut the fashion fabric with broad seam allowances. Then I draped it on the dress form to make it fit my body.

Eftersom jag och min vän har liknande kroppsform upptill, behövde jag inte ändra på mönstret, utan klippte bara till tygbitarna med extra bred sömsmån. Sedan draperade jag dem på provdockan för att fixa min egen passform.

I wanted a sturdy construction, so that the bust openings would not gap when closed with push buttons. Therefore I used piping and two layers of fabric.

Jag ville ha en stadig konstruktion, så att amningsluckorna inte skulle glipa när de stängdes med tryckknapparna. Därför använde jag passpoaler och dubbla tyglager.

The piping was put in between the two layers of fashion fabric, so that this piece then could be everted and function both as a fancy collar and a sturdy bust opening.

I stitched darts and made a broad multi layer hem at the bust line, before putting all pieces back on the dress form, in order to pin them in place before stitching them together.

Jag sydde inprovningar och gjorde en många lager tjock fåll vid bystlinjen på klänningslivet. Sedan satte jag upp alla delar på provdockan och nålade fast dem för rätt passform.

I put piping in the back of the neckline too. After having fitted the dress one last time, I stitched the hidden zipper and all of the pieces together. The skirt is a cirkle skirt.

Jag sydde en passpoal baktil i halsringningen också. Efter att ha testat klänningen en sista gång, sydde jag fast den dolda dragkedjan och sydde samman alla de olika delarna. Kjolen är en helcirkelkjol.Then I put six push buttons in each bust opening.

Sedan sydde jag fast sex tryckknappar i de båda amningsluckorna.

I also added tiny strings with push buttons, for holding the shoulder straps in place.

Jag sydde också fast små band med tryckknappar inunder axelbanden, så att man kan hålla BH:ns axelband på plats.I am very happy with the result. In spite of its hasty genesis, it fits fairly well and it is really functional. I received such nice response at the party! Most of the women that I talked to mentioned the dress, and my two favorite comments were these:

“You look so beautiful, just like a flower”

“Have you had that dress sewn up for yourself? Such beautiful dresses cannot be found in shops”

Jag är väldigt nöjd med resultatet. Trots klänningens hastiga tillblivelse och få provningar passar den faktiskt ganska bra och är riktigt funktionell. Jag fick så fin respons på kalaset. De flesta kvinnor som jag talade med nämnde klänningen och några av de kommentarer som värmde mest var dessa:

“Du är så vacker, du ser ut som en blomma”

“Har du sytt upp den där kläningen? Så där vackra klänningar kan man inte hitta i affärer”

These pictures were taken the day after the party and you might see that it is stained and wrinkled, while I look as tired underneath all makeup.

De här bilderna togs dagen efter festen och du kanske ser att klänningen har blivit fläckig av mjölk, spyor och tårta, samt skrynklats av en trött bebis. Jag ser visst själv lika illa åtgången ut.

Happy birthday, mum!

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YWU Competition Entry – Regency Lady Revived

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Ten years ago I bought lots of a blue ”synthetic silk” fabric. Already by then, I thought that it would be perfect for a V-lined regency gown, but I was not a confident pattern maker by then, so when I couldn’t find any suitable pattern, it was stowed away.

Thanks to Pinterest and many helpful blogposts, I could at last decipher how the V-lined gowns were constructed. When I also stumbled over this lovely portrait of Tatyana Borisovna Potemkina, I knew that this gown would be my entry in this year’s competition.

I needed better underwear, so I started with making chorded stays (and because I hate hand sewing, I cheated in every way, where there weren’t visible seams), a new chemise and petticoat – faithful to my tradition, I only used old bedsheets.

Chemise, chorded stays and petticoat

Before we left Denmark for the busy holidays in Sweden, I had made a pattern for the bodice, but I had not yet figured out whether the lining should have as much fabric as the outside, or if the outside should be pleated and then stitched down to the lining. After examining some photos of vintage dresses, I ended up using the same pattern for both lining and main fabric. There is now room for all bust sizes! The skirt also ended up being quite voluminous, because I had to fully trust my instincts when I cut the fabric and pleated it to the top, without my dear mannequin at hand.

I had the most fun constructing the sleeves. It was only a bit time consuming to hand stich and arrange the pleating and the thin strings. The trickiest part by far was to make the regency hair. I had to make my own hair pieces, with much help from YWU articles and blogs.

When my mother heard that I needed lightweight cotton for the chemisette she bestowed a sleeveless blouse on me. It consisted mainly of lace, so there was not much fabric to work with. I laid it aside for some months, hoping for a good idea. Our last night before going home for the Christmas Holidays (where my gown waited), I finally had inspiration for the chemisette and cut the blouse to pieces. I made the neck-part on the bus ride to Sweden and then I used the remaining decimeters from the blouses’ shoulders, for fake sleeves. On its own, it does not look much like a historic chemisette, but when only the neck part and the arm pieces are seen under the gown, I think it looks right.

We were both sick and tired when my husband took this photography. Afterwards I found out that we had not arranged the fabric volumes to its advantage. You have to look at the other pictures, from our summer photo session, to see how the dress is really meant to look like.

And can you believe it? I won, alongside these incredibly talented seamstresses! Crazy…

Galet nog, så vann jag, tillsammans med dessa otroligt duktiga sömmerskor! Känner mig grymt hedrad.

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